Is Anyone In Jackson From Wyoming?

by Wisdom ~ June 20th, 2006. Filed under: Words O' Wisdom.


The area around Jackson, Wyoming is probably one of the most beautiful places in the world. The scenery is second to nowhere, and the fishing is world class. Why then, do I cringe every time I find myself in Jackson proper?

You know, as a kid, I used to spend my summers camping with my grandparents at the Hoback Campground along the Hoback River and at the East Table Creek Campground along the Snake River. Campgrounds that my Grandpa helped build decades ago. We made friends with the people in the neighboring camps, and did things for each other like cut firewood and cook meals. Once a week we would journey into Jackson for groceries, get a quick meal at McDonald’s, and wander through the shops around the square.

Back then, Jackson was just a little town, with a few historic downtown hotels, a couple of tourist trap souvenir shops, one or two outdoor shops, and a lot of bars. And yes, there were ski lodges and dude ranches. There wasn’t, however, a celebrity resident to be found. The cost of living was reasonable, property values were reasonable, and the buildings looked old and rustic because they were old and rustic. Back then, the people who lived in Jackson worked in Jackson, and visa versa. Everyone said hello to everyone else and common courtesy was the rule.

After the trip to town, we drove to Astoria hot springs and swam in the pool under Grandma’s watchfull eye. Then, when we were worn out, we headed back to camp, freshly showered and in clean clothes, usually with a cheap souvenir toy in our pocket and a smile on our face.

Things in the Jackson area have changed, though. First off, Astoria is no longer there. Good old Arnold Schwarzenegger bought it a few years back, leveled it, and built a gated community where it used to stand. My kids will never get the chance to swim in the naturally heated spring water pools. In town, things aren’t much better. The town is a commercial nightmare. Everywhere you look is another national chainstore, and between each of those is “boutique” that caters to the rich and famous. Emphasis on the rich part.

The square is surrounded by high dollar souvenir shops that sell “I Love Jackson” t-shirts, and $5000 end tables made of old barn doors. The outdoor shops sell designer hiking boots and $300 pairs of sunglasses. The historic hotels are reserved for the ultra rich and most of the bars are gourmet restaurants now. And yes, the ski lodges and dude ranches are still around, just way bigger and way more expensive. All the best land has been bought up by Hollywood celebrities and uber rich international jet setters. The cost of living has gone through the roof, property values are off on a space shuttle mission somewhere, and what’s worse is that most of the people that work in Jackson definitely don’t live in Jackson. They carpool daily from not-so-nearby towns in Idaho. Most of the people who live in Jackson definitely don’t work there. They’re not really the kind of people who need jobs if you know what I mean. The South side of town is populated by rich people, and the North side of town is populated by rich people who think the South siders are poor slummers. The buildings still look old and rustic but now it’s because they have laws in Jackson that say they have to be that way.

The worst part, however, is the complete change in the attitudes of the people who live in and frequent the Jackson area. At the campgrounds, the welcome signs have been replaced with lists of rules and the friendly neighbors have been replaced by self important jerks who think that a campground is just a place to sleep between trips to the museum. A few years ago one had the nerve to come banging on the door to my parents camper because they were running the generator to power my Grandpa’s oxygen machine. When my Mom tried to calmly explain to him my Grandpa’s needs, his comment was that maybe my Grandpa was too old to be out here and maybe we should take him home. As I said, my Grandpa helped build these campgrounds, and this lowlife piece of garbage had the nerve to say that? A good old Wyoming threat of bodily harm sent the guy packing, but it doesn’t change the underlying problem.

In Jackson proper, things aren’t much better. During a short walk around the local grocery store I was run into by three different people and their shopping carts. Not one of them even gave me a nod, let alone an apology. I smiled and said hi to at least a dozen people, and I got nothing in return. No one said hello, no one said excuse me, no one said sorry, no one smiled, hell, no one even acknowledged my existence. They were all in their own little worlds, scurrying around like they were afraid of any extraneous contact with the outside world.

You know, I’ve experienced that before. It was in a grocery store in California. Same atmosphere. Same fear. Wyomingites, however, should be different. We have always been friendly. We have always been courteous. We have always treated strangers like friends. These folks that live in and frequent Jackson aren’t Wyomingites though. They come from all over the world to live in Wyoming, but they don’t want to be Wyomingites.

They put stickers on their cars that complain about the minerals production on Wyoming lands, but push for changes to the Wyoming Constitution that will allow them to take excess funds from the counties that benefit from that mineral production and funnel it into their own county. They push for environmental protection laws that make the average Wyoming residents lives tougher, then fly back to their homes in L.A., New York, Paris, and London in their private jets burning more fuel in a one way trip than most of us will burn in a lifetime. They have turned this once quaint and historical town into a commercialized spaghetti western, and then alienated themselves from the rest of the state with their holier than thou attitudes and actions.

I miss the old Jackson, but fear that I’ll have to live with the new Jackson whether I like it or not, because, you see, it is spreading. The Jackson “attitude” has worked its way down through Bondurant, past Pinedale, and is even worming it’s way into Boulder. I can’t imagine it will come much farther South (no more trees) but its close enough to Rock Springs as it is. Ranches and ranchettes throughout the Windrivers have been scooped up by investors and people too late to the party and too light in the wallet to settle in Jackson, so the average person will never have a chance to retire to a cabin in this beautiful part of the world.

So I’ll stick around down here in this high mountain desert I call home, and only head north to Eastern California when I absolutely have to. Preferably heavily armed.

Wisdom

2 Responses to Is Anyone In Jackson From Wyoming?

  1. Cayce1

    Well,

    Please THANK your Grandfather…I hope he is still around…for the work he did in building such beautiful campgrounds!

    I’ve camped along the Alpine Junction as a student from BYU with many of my friends over the years! I hope we have always been respectful. We tried to be.

    Two years ago, taking my rather “new” family up to raft the Snake for the first time, we couldn’t find a campsite along Alpine, which was all I knew. Someone said something about a campsite just past Hoback. We went looking. We found Hoback campsite! All those times camping, so close yet so far from the most beautiful, peaceful site I’d ever seen! Right on the little river, under the canopy of the trees!

    My family wanted to go again last year. We never made it. The said we “HAD” to go in 2008. So, we’re planning to go in August.

    I hope, I pray, we can find two open sites at Hoback. We love it. I thank your Grandfather for his work! And if we run into you, and you say HI, I guarentee, you’ll get a smile and “How are you” back! I may not know it is you, or was your Grandfather, but in my heart, we’ll think it is about anyone we meet. We love to say hi.

    We don’t do downtown Jackson, we cook great food, hit the river, swim, and mountain bike down the Teton Pass trail back into Jackson Hole. And we go home sad to leave!

    God Bless!

    C. Weber

  2. Wisdom

    C. Weber

    Thank you for your kind remarks, and I hope you enjoy your vacation in August. If you do stay in the Hoback campground, take an afternoon and cross the river to explore the other side. The campground used to be on both sides of the river, but an ice flow tore out the bridge years ago. The forest service chose not to replace it (as they were closing campgrounds left and right at the time anyway) and the campsites, including the old ampitheater were left to be reclaimed by the pines, grass, and willows. The road is still over there, and beyond it is a spring fed pond full of crystal clear water that was once home to a school of huge brook trout. Near fishing rock, where the springs lets out into the river, is the old trailhead for a nature walk that used to be maintained up the mountainside. Their were signs all along it marking various rocks and fauna, and it led up and over the wash along the river bend giving an amazing view. When she was a child, my Mom was once chased down that trail by a protective mother blackbear when she unwhittingly got a little too close to her cub. All the way on top of the mountain, forgotten and lost among the pines, is an ancient picnic table that only the most stalwart explorer would ever hope to find. Back down at the campground, Mable, a beautiful cow moose, would bring here new babies to the camps every night exploring for leftover food. Some years she would bring single young ones, other years she would bring twins. She may have been a different moose every year for all I know, but she was always Mable. And she always licked the pots clean and ate the bar soap if you forgot and left it out by the wash basin.

    It is these little treasures that are sadly lost to the over commercialization of this beautiful place. It has brought a smile to my face as I write this and many of these memories come flooding back. I have never been so close to God as I have been while I was curled up in a sleeping bag, nestled in my tent, listening as thunder rolled down the valley like waves breaking across seaside cliffs.

    I hope you find the time to find your own treasures in this most sacred of places.

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